In Istanbul, Revered Shrines Receive the Wishes and Woes of a Modern City

Years in the past, when her sister was recognized with ovarian most cancers, Mahire Turk sought divine intervention.

She trekked to a shrine atop a hill overlooking the Bosporus, sat underneath an ornate dome near the grave of a Sufi grasp who died practically 400 years in the past and prayed intensely for her sister to beat the illness.

After chemotherapy, her sister was declared most cancers free — and is now anticipating a child, stated Ms. Turk, 40, who works in a pharmaceutical warehouse.

So to today, when worries cloud her thoughts, Ms. Turk, like a lot of her compatriots on this historic, sprawling metropolis of 16 million, visits one in every of its many shrines to long-dead spiritual figures to hunt a non secular enhance.

“These are the protectors of Istanbul,” Ms. Turk stated throughout a return pilgrimage to the shrine of Aziz Mahmud Hudayi, the place she had prayed for her sister. “I am sure that if I pay them a visit, they will protect me, too.”

Centuries of civilization have left Istanbul dotted with such graves. More than simply historic relics, many are well-kept, dwelling websites that obtain crowds of tourists in search of quiet locations to wish, make needs and unburden themselves from the woes of the fashionable metropolis.

The shrines mix Islamic devotion, Turkish historical past and Istanbul folklore. The metropolis’s sailors, for instance, have historically seen Aziz Mahmud Hudayi and three different males buried close to the Bosporus, which flows by means of Istanbul, because the waterway’s protectors.

Some of the shrines mark the resting locations of documented historic figures. Others are of extra doubtful historicity, which doesn’t diminish their function within the non secular lifetime of town, a task that endures largely unaffected by Turkey’s modern political and financial gyrations.

Turkey’s spiritual authorities have posted indicators at some websites to remind guests that Islam forbids praying to anybody however God. But lots of the trustworthy nonetheless search the intercession of the interred to assist them land jobs, purchase automobiles, get wholesome, discover spouses or have youngsters. And some categorical a deep affinity for the lifeless.

“I love him,” Fatma Akyol, a college pupil in theology, stated of Yahya Efendi, a Sixteenth-century Sufi scholar and poet who now rests in a shrine on the southwestern financial institution of the Bosporus. “I visit him very often.”

Yahya Efendi’s tomb sits underneath a pistachio-colored dome in an ethereal room surrounded by the graves of 10 others, together with his mom, spouse and son. The advanced has separate prayer services for women and men, each with commanding views of the Bosporus. Outside, stone paths wind by means of a graveyard shaded by towering timber to a terrace the place guests take photographs.

One current afternoon, cats dozed within the mausoleum’s marble entryway as guests drank from a stone fountain and eliminated their footwear earlier than getting into to wish. Parents introduced their youngsters. A mosque preacher with a protracted beard stated he had introduced his spouse and her sister “to receive spiritual health.” A youngster in a Metallica T-shirt emerged from the mausoleum, retrieved his footwear and wandered off.

Ms. Akyol stated she usually spent hours praying and studying scriptures within the shrine. She shrugged off warnings about in search of assist from the lifeless, evaluating it to working a connection to get a job.

“When you ask for something from God, those who are beloved by God can be a go-between,” she stated.

The shrine of Aziz Mahmud Hudayi sits on the waterway’s reverse financial institution.

Visitors come to wish close to his grave, usually returning to distribute sweets after their prayers have been answered, as they do at many shrines.

Outside, academics advised ladies from an Islamic summer season faculty to maintain quiet throughout their go to. A brother and sister from a Turkish Black Sea city stated they every have been in search of “a benevolent affair,” that means they hoped to get married. And a retired man stated the buried mystic had walked on water throughout the Bosporus, proving his non secular prowess.

Omer Arik, the vice chairman of the inspiration that oversees the positioning, advised a special model of the mystic’s story, wherein the mystic guided a boatman throughout the water throughout a storm, utilizing a route that’s nonetheless named for him. It didn’t hassle Mr. Arik that some guests believed a extra miraculous, water-walking model, he stated, citing a Turkish proverb: “The sheikh doesn’t fly. The follower makes him fly.”

Near the northern finish of the Bosporus’s western financial institution sits the shrine of Telli Baba, or the Father of the Threads, a determine whose story is imbued with a lot lore that even the retired sailor who oversees the shrine doesn’t declare to know his precise historical past, and even his full identification.

He may need served within the sultan’s military through the conquest of Constantinople by the Ottoman military in 1453. He may need carried in his turban a size of silvery thread that brides historically braided into their hair as an indication of his devotion to the Almighty (most likely the supply of his nickname).

His grave, in a small room with hanging lamps, is roofed with silver threads. Visitors minimize a chunk after they make a want and are speculated to return it after it comes true.

Hatice Aydin, a retired trainer who cleans the shrine and feeds the native cats, stated a minority of tourists wished for youngsters and new jobs.

“Most of them are looking for husbands,” she stated.

Sure sufficient, a preschool trainer quickly emerged from the shrine and revealed that she had been asking for a groom. It was her third go to.

Later, a younger girl appeared on the entrance in a blue hoop costume that was too massive to slot in the stairwell that led to the grave. Her uncle stated he had prayed there for her to get married and so had introduced her again on her engagement day. They snapped photographs close to the doorway and left.

Fatma Yilmaz, a monetary supervisor, got here bearing needs for herself and numerous others, she stated. She minimize 13 items of thread: 4 for her, 5 for her sister, one every for her son and her ex-husband, and two for pals.

“Now it is on them,” she stated. “If their wishes are accepted, they have to come here.”

Atop a hill on the alternative financial institution stands the fourth of the Bosporus’s protectors, a shrine to Hazreti Yusa, or the prophet Joshua, who’s revered by Christians, Jews and Muslims.

An indication from the native spiritual authorities stops wanting claiming that he’s really buried there, noting as a substitute that the positioning has held spiritual significance for a lot of centuries. The web site is centered on a grave — a greater than 50-foot-long raised flower mattress. It could also be that lengthy as a result of those that constructed it might not have identified precisely the place the physique was buried and wished to verify it was coated.

One current night, Rumeysa Koc, 35, stood by the grave, her palms raised. She had come to Istanbul with a colleague to purchase merchandise for her girls’s clothes line however had woken that morning after a horrible nightmare. The girls had completed their work early and determined to squeeze in a shrine go to.

As they drove towards the shrine, she stated, she had obtained a name telling her that the very factor she had dreamed about — she declined to offer specifics — had not come to go.

“Without even setting foot on this hill, God solved the issue for me,” Ms. Koc stated.

So on the grave she had given thanks, she stated, and left feeling that her day had been miraculous.

“I am feeling free as a bird,” she stated.